The Journey

 

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(Colour coded each journey by date. Note atrocious trips, those where lessons were learnt, marked in dark grey as well as brown.)

Lesson 2: How To Survive A French Strike

Gare de Dijon-Ville.

In case of "La Grève Française", the best course of action is a swift departure from France. Preferably this should be done prior to the commencement of the strike, but if no notice is given or if you fall ill will salmonellosis, then you will have to follow the following instructions:

1. Arrange a destination for your exile. Call them and let them know you're on your way, that you'll be leaving first thing tomorrow morning. If your chosen destination is only a few hundred kilometres away, inform your hosts that you should arrive the following evening. If, however, you're attempting to travel to the far north of Germany, to the Danish border.. then you should still make it the following evening..? Surely it won't take longer than 15 hours to get there ?

2. Go to the train station first thing Friday morning and try to leave Dijon. There won't be any trains operating that day, but at least they can inform you of the first train out the following morning, at 7:30. Don't try to make a reservation as they'll be blocked due to strike action. Instead just have the ticket window attendant promise you that the trains listed will in fact be running, and that you'll be in Kiel by 9:30pm on Saturday.

3. The next morning, it would be very unhelpful if you were to forget your luggage straps at the house and only realise when you get out at the train station. Avoid doing this. Otherwise, your first train will depart without any problems, and you'll be glad. 

4. 8am: When you arrive at Besançon, remain calm as you discover that all departing trains have been cancelled for the morning. Speak courteously to the gentleman at the information window, who informs you that you're not the only one wanting to get to Strasbourg, and that he'll see what he can do.

5. Make friends with Megan, a girl from California, as she is also needing to get to Germany. It's with her that you'll spend the next 4 hours, as you wait for the replacement train, and she will be lovely company.

6. In the time you have, go to the ticket window to enquire about connecting trains in Germany. Amazingly, the french lady will issue you with a new itinerary, one that sees you arriving in Kiel only one hour later than originally planned, despite the extra 4 hours waiting, no high speed trains and twice as many changes. This will surprise you, as it should. You may even feel a sense of foreboding. You should.

7. 12:30pm: Hop on the overcrowded train for Belfort, where you change for Mulhousse, where you eventually change for Strasbourg. You should arrive there at 3:40pm as planned.

Note: It's at about this time that you should have a look at a map and cross-reference it with your itinerary, just to be sure that there have been no mistakes made.

If you didn't look at a map, the following list of instructions apply to you:

 Gare de Strasbourg.

8. Hop on the same train as Megan for Stuttgart, as indicated by your itinerary.

9. 7:20pm: Board the train at Stuttgart bound for Esslingen, as indicated by your itinerary.

10. 7:30pm: At Esslingen your itinerary indicates that you must wait for 2 hours before boarding a train for Eutin, which, according to your itinerary, is only 7 minutes away. Wait for half an hour before deciding to check at which platform your train for Eutin arrives.

11. When you realise your train for Eutin doesn't exist, seek help from a passer-by named Mirjam. She's never heard of Eutin, but if it's only 7 minutes away then surely a taxi would be fairly inexpensive.

12. When the taxi driver says he's never heard of Eutin, as well as the other members of the public who are waiting for taxis, explain to him that you need to get to Kiel.

13. The taxi driver and the other folks nearby will begin to laugh at you, and Mirjam will look concerned, and you are right to be worried. The taxi driver says to you "Do you know where is Kiel ?" You will discover that it is 700km away from your present location.

14. It's now 8:15pm and you are on the verge of a mental breakdown. Mirjam saves you, though, with her amazing optimism. She tells you that you can't change anything now, so you may as well make the most of it. The wisdom in her words is irrefutable, so you pull yourself together. Mirjam will suggest that you accompany her back to Stuttgart station where you will surely be able to make another plan, which you should do.

15. When Mirjam leaves you at the information desk it is 8:45pm. Give her a CD as thanks, even though she will say she feels like a thief.

16. Acquire an itinerary for Kiel, being sure to double check that there are no errors in this one. Proceed to the ticket window to reserve a bed, as the only remaining trains are night trains.

17. The train at 10:20 will seem perfect, giving you 8 hours of sleep before your first change, and arriving in Kiel at 8:30am. Unfortunately, reservations close 2 hours before the departure of the train, so you won't be able to take this one. You will, therefore, be forced to reserve a bed on the 1:30am train, with a change every 3 hours. It means you will probably not sleep much tonight, but at least you still arrive at 10:30am.

7.50 for all this ! 

18. Phone your hosts in Kiel from a payphone and tell them the story thus far, and that they should expect you the following morning at 10:30. From here, proceed directly to McDonald's for some emotional eating.

19. It's at about 10:30pm that you should wearily walk into the only warm place in the station: a café.

20. Befriend the girl seated in front of you, and be very glad you did. Her name is Lisa Maria, she's from southern Germany and is en route to Paris to see her friend. She will be splendid company for the next few hours until the departure of your train. She will also teach you a few long German compound words including Donaudampfschifffahrtskapitänsmütze, which is the hat that the captain of a steam boat on the Danube river would wear.

21. It is largely due to her smiling face that you don't notice the passing hours, and that you remain cool when you hear that your train is delayed 30 minutes due to, believe it or not, German strike action. Yes, it seems that Stuttgart is the only train station in all of Germany where one could have had this problem, as there is a great controversy surrounding its redevelopment. Out the front of the station you can hear shouting and music and police sirens.

22. 1:30am: The staff at the train station will assure you that the delay will not affect your connection in Koblenz at 5am. Don't believe her, because at 5:10am you will be in Koblenz and your train for Kiel will be gone.

23. It is here in Koblenz, after 24 hours of travel and no sleep yet, that you will discover a stone of resilience within you that says, "so what ?"

24. Wait an hour for a train to Hamburg, where you know you can change for Kiel. Sleep solidly in your seat.

25. At 11:20am, board the train from Hamburg for Kiel.

26. At 12:36pm, disembark from the train and be overjoyed to see Kiel.

Even though you're here only 2 nights before you have to return to Paris.

So what ?

I still managed to busk in Kiel. It was very, very cold, though.

Day 31 - Hungry for Hamburg(er)

This photo requires no caption.

Ok, I'll get it out of the way before I proceed: One of the primary incentives for me to come to Hamburg was the possibility of eating a hamburger here. This I did (with schoolgirl-like excitement) in spectacularly anti-climactic fashion on my first day by paying a visit to Burger King. So there. That's one tick off the bucket list.

I had considered making a brief aside into the desirability of advancing towards the completion of one's bucket list (or, things to do before you kick the proverbial bucket), but the content seemed morbid no matter how tactfully I phrased it. I'll therefore say (optimistically) that my bucket list is an ever-expanding entity, and chasing its expansion will be my joie de vivre.

To return to Hamburg, let me Wikipedia it for you: 

This photo is not allowed. Shhh.

Hamburg is a city-state in the north of Germany, having some 1.8 million inhabitants in the city itself. To include the wider metropolitan region is to more than double this figure. Hamburg's port is the third largest in Europe and the eighth largest in the world, and is a highly important centre of shipping. Wikipedia will not tell you that there is a Burger King in the Hauptbahnof (central station) where it is verboten to photograph signs of hamburgers, no matter their cultural or religious significance to you as a person. A hamburger will cost you €1 (as of the time of this blog post), and how rewarding this experience is for you is an entirely personal matter.


Spitalerstraße

Proceeding west from the central station, you come upon Spitalerstraße, a main shopping strip. I set up here for about an hour and a half today, and was given the most generous reception of any town thus far.

Thank you so much to those that listened and bought a CD today :)

Unfortunately towards the end of my set I started to feel a sore throat coming along, which I am hoping will not worsen with time. Tomorrow will see me venture to Aarhus, Denmark for a few nights, where I hope to make the most of the Bryggedage festival taking place in Den Gamle By. I have, by the way, not the faintest idea how either of these names are pronounced. As a result, it should be a fascinating, and I anticipate having a serious ball :) Being sick would be a total downer in this regard.

So tomorrow: Denmark. However, I can't leave Hamburg without checking out the nightlife, which is on the cards for this evening.

So, as they say here in Northern Germany: Tschüß ! (seriously. that's how it's spelt) :)

Tim

Journey Thus Far

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Day 30 - Bountiful Busking in Berlin

My spot in Mauerpark

Welcome to Berlin, a city filled to the brim with history.

During my stay there I was able to get around on a free walking tour, guided by an Aussie tour guide named Theo. If ever you're in Berlin and want a fantastic overview of the major sites, peppered with funny anecdotes pertaining to their historical significance, I thoroughly recommend Brewer's Berlin Tours. Ask for Theo.

I could write on and on about how wonderfully rich I found Berlin to be, but I honestly don't know where to begin. Suffice it to say: It's worth a visit. Plus, drinks are very cheap. Big plus, considering the city's nightlife is the stuff of legend.

As far as busking goes, I set myself up in Mauerpark, a 17 acre strip of grass that once formed part of the death strip between the borders of East and West Berlin. Every Sunday, thousands of people flock to this park to relax and enjoy a wide range of free entertainment. Needless to say, a good place to busk.

Originally I had intended to set myself up in the markets immediately adjacent, as I thought that this was the main site of activity. It was only after I was unable to find a place in the market that I set myself up on the grass, next to a path that ran the length of the park. As it turns out, this was probably the best place I could have set myself up, and I played happily for most of the day to a cheerful crowd of passers-by, with a festival feeling in the air.

"The smile on your face..."

That's truly what the Mauerpark market is. It is a weekly festival. To name one of many attractions, there is what could possibly be the world's largest open-air karaoke. Here I stopped to listen to a guy belting out Ronan Keating's "When You Say Nothing At All", which the crowd of well over a thousand people received with much screaming and applause.

Wonderful.

It's even made me consider returning to Berlin on the occasional Sunday, just to be there again. Unfortunately, though, I think the weather will cause things to start calming down. I was very lucky with the weather on Sunday, it was beautiful.

So that's my Berlin experience in a small shell of a nut. At present I am based in Hamburg in Germany's north, relaxing while the weather worsens. If I get a clear spell I'll venture out into the streets of the city's centre. I'll let you know how that goes.

:)

Tim

Journey Thus Far

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