Home Again: Readjusting to Everyday Life

Has it already been two weeks since I got home ?

Since getting back it's felt as though my life prior to the trip has simply recommenced, with little change. I've obviously noticed some changes in myself. I seem to have outgrown the comfort zone that I had established for myself.

The wonderful thing about this is that I feel able to forge some new paths. I don't mean making any radical decisions, I've had my fill of them for a little while, but I rather mean that I feel empowered to steer my life around some different obstacles.

I don't like the idea of being too comfortable.

I went for a walk with my dog the other day, went down to the park at the end of my street and walked the same way I walked around Bratislava or Berlin, but I noticed a big difference in how it felt. The familiarity of my surroundings meant my eyes passed over them without really seeing them. The human mind has a tendency (with good reason) to ease cognitive load, and one facet of this is that familiar things are dismissed in favour of perceiving and seeking to understand the new elements in the scenery.

Overseas this meant that every stroll around the city was awe-inspiring. The smell of the air, the colour of the sky, the feel of the ground under my feet; everything was remarkable.

My point is not that I need to move house every time things get familiar. I suppose the point I'm trying to make is that I never want to get so comfortable with my life that the amazing aspects of it cease to be remarkable.

I suppose my point is the age-old "count your blessings" philosophy.

BUT: just because this philosophy is familiar to you, doesn't mean it isn't important - and it doesn't mean it can't have immediate and lasting relevance.

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Day 70 - Homeward Bound

Surprise :)

I had wanted to keep my return to Australia a surprise for a number of reasons:

a) I was never sure exactly when I would be coming home, especially given my experiences of the last week or two,

b) I didn't want to set a precedent that I would then feel obliged to fulfil,

and

c) because I dig the idea of surprising my friends and family.

Point A has been dealt with exhaustively in this blog. I've had such an incredible number of amazing experiences, so many of them being difficult to live but hilarious to recount. None of them I regret, because none of them can be changed.

This is where point B comes in: I feel ready to come home, and it has nothing to do with a length of time spent.

I set out on this journey to spread my music around Europe, to overcome my performance anxiety and hear a wide range of opinions on my CD. I have accomplished all three.

I also set out on this journey, as strange as it sounds, to talk to myself.

There is a great word in french, dépaysé. It literally means "de-countried", but can be understood as something closer to disoriented. It bears with it, however, a feeling of being entirely removed from your habitual life, feeling out of place. I have spent a lot of time on this trip feeling dépaysé.

It's as though my life in the recent past has been too noisy for me to hear myself. I know that, typically, I have a good internal dialogue that enables me to nut things out and get to the bottom of them. On this trip I've had the time and the peace to have long discussions with myself, occasionally out loud. This, coupled with my appearance at certain points on this trip, would have been wonderfully worrisome to other passengers in the first class train coaches. It took me feeling completely alone in some places in order to really connect the dots and make sense of things.

There has been a spectacular balance of incredibly taxing tasks, both physically and mentally; and still, serene moments. The former usually involved either travelling between cities or having no money (or both), while the latter was generally spent either on a train or with my guitar. In my post from Lyon I outlined it probably as best I can:  It's as though life has led me up the mountain, up the long and tortorous path, only to show me the view - and I'm surprised by how far I've come. I'm surprised by the height of the mountain, by how far I can see into the distance.

So, although the voyage was essentially "cut short" by the loss of passport disabling me from going to the states, nothing has been lost. Everything remains contained in this cosmologically brief adventure which will never be re-lived. I've assembled enough stories to last me years, and I have in my heart what feels like a well of magical moments that I can draw from whenever I wish. On top of this, I've discovered the core of my resilience. I know where it lies and how strong it is, and it is strong enough to be the foundation of anything that I may want to achieve in the future.

It's a marvellous thing to reach for your limits and discover that they stretch farther than you dare extend your hand.

So, veni vedi vici. I've never done anything more worthwhile.

Thank you to everyone who was part of my magical wanderings.

To those: that I met while travelling, all those that gave me a place to stay (often with only a few hours' notice), those who dropped a coin into my guitar case, who bought a CD, who sent me photos they took of me, who came and talked to me between songs, who defended me against Police officers, gave me directions, gave me free beer, translated important information given by civil servants, agreed to play my CD in their youth hostel or café or restaurant, gave me constructive criticism, used their student card to get me a free hamburger, suggested good places to play in the city, taught me outrageously long words, kept me company in cold train stations in the middle of the night, gave me optimistic advice, bought me a meal, and those who were just simply friendly.

Merci, Danke, Dank U, Dakujem, Tak, Thank you.

You are the substance to my dreams.

:)

- Tim

The Journey

 

Click image to enlarge.

(Colour coded each journey by date. Note atrocious trips, those where lessons were learnt, marked in dark grey as well as brown.)

Day 66 - Passportless in Paris

It's almost as though the universe read my last post and decided to pull out all the stops.

I say "almost", because this is not the universe's fault but my own, but the universe is an easier entity to blame - it doesn't tend to defend itself very vocally.

So yeah, it so happens that on my TGV from Frankfurt to Paris (during which I enjoyed stimulating conversation with Mark, the Canadian fellow seated next to me) I left my little document holder containing my passport, plane tickets, eurail pass and travel insurance information. It even had some mini matches that I had bought for my sisters from Salzburg, I had placed them there thinking, "they'll be safe here, I definitely won't lose this."

I've become very familiar with the staff in Paris Est's lost and found department, as well as the Australian Embassy (lovely place). After establishing that the passport could not be found (the cleaning staff didn't find it in the TGV apparently and the station where it went afterwards didn't find it either), I went about applying for an emergency passport. By this stage I had already missed my 10:30am plane to the USA, but I had cancelled it prior to take-off in the hope that I could re-schedule it for another day. Once I had my emergency passport I made my way to the US embassy to plea my case, thinking (naïvely) that I could stroll into it the same way I had strolled into the Aussie one, and have a chat to one of the staff members.

Apparently, this is not the case. In order to enter the embassy you need an appointment. In order to make an appointment you need to make a phone call. The phone call will cost you (before even making your appointment or asking any questions) €15. Following this appointment you may be eligible for a visa application. I didn't find out how much this cost, but I imagine it would be exorbitant. Once you've lodged your application it can take weeks to be approved.. so in the end, it didn't look feasible. I was very disappointed.

I hadn't slept in a few days either, one thing having led to another, so resilience was at an all-time low.

But, it doesn't matter. Quoth Mirjam, it can't be changed now, so I'd be better off looking forward and making the best of things, which I intend to do.

At least I can get back to Australia, at least my parents were able to lend me money, at least I am still alive and well. Some might say you know you're scraping the barrel of optimism when you revert to being thankful for your health, but I genuinely am.

Things don't always go to plan ("nothing happens the way you think"), in fact it's more interesting when they don't. Some of my favourite experiences have been impromptu, and everything from tomorrow onwards is going to be pretty impromptu !

:)

Lesson 2: How To Survive A French Strike

Gare de Dijon-Ville.

In case of "La Grève Française", the best course of action is a swift departure from France. Preferably this should be done prior to the commencement of the strike, but if no notice is given or if you fall ill will salmonellosis, then you will have to follow the following instructions:

1. Arrange a destination for your exile. Call them and let them know you're on your way, that you'll be leaving first thing tomorrow morning. If your chosen destination is only a few hundred kilometres away, inform your hosts that you should arrive the following evening. If, however, you're attempting to travel to the far north of Germany, to the Danish border.. then you should still make it the following evening..? Surely it won't take longer than 15 hours to get there ?

2. Go to the train station first thing Friday morning and try to leave Dijon. There won't be any trains operating that day, but at least they can inform you of the first train out the following morning, at 7:30. Don't try to make a reservation as they'll be blocked due to strike action. Instead just have the ticket window attendant promise you that the trains listed will in fact be running, and that you'll be in Kiel by 9:30pm on Saturday.

3. The next morning, it would be very unhelpful if you were to forget your luggage straps at the house and only realise when you get out at the train station. Avoid doing this. Otherwise, your first train will depart without any problems, and you'll be glad. 

4. 8am: When you arrive at Besançon, remain calm as you discover that all departing trains have been cancelled for the morning. Speak courteously to the gentleman at the information window, who informs you that you're not the only one wanting to get to Strasbourg, and that he'll see what he can do.

5. Make friends with Megan, a girl from California, as she is also needing to get to Germany. It's with her that you'll spend the next 4 hours, as you wait for the replacement train, and she will be lovely company.

6. In the time you have, go to the ticket window to enquire about connecting trains in Germany. Amazingly, the french lady will issue you with a new itinerary, one that sees you arriving in Kiel only one hour later than originally planned, despite the extra 4 hours waiting, no high speed trains and twice as many changes. This will surprise you, as it should. You may even feel a sense of foreboding. You should.

7. 12:30pm: Hop on the overcrowded train for Belfort, where you change for Mulhousse, where you eventually change for Strasbourg. You should arrive there at 3:40pm as planned.

Note: It's at about this time that you should have a look at a map and cross-reference it with your itinerary, just to be sure that there have been no mistakes made.

If you didn't look at a map, the following list of instructions apply to you:

 Gare de Strasbourg.

8. Hop on the same train as Megan for Stuttgart, as indicated by your itinerary.

9. 7:20pm: Board the train at Stuttgart bound for Esslingen, as indicated by your itinerary.

10. 7:30pm: At Esslingen your itinerary indicates that you must wait for 2 hours before boarding a train for Eutin, which, according to your itinerary, is only 7 minutes away. Wait for half an hour before deciding to check at which platform your train for Eutin arrives.

11. When you realise your train for Eutin doesn't exist, seek help from a passer-by named Mirjam. She's never heard of Eutin, but if it's only 7 minutes away then surely a taxi would be fairly inexpensive.

12. When the taxi driver says he's never heard of Eutin, as well as the other members of the public who are waiting for taxis, explain to him that you need to get to Kiel.

13. The taxi driver and the other folks nearby will begin to laugh at you, and Mirjam will look concerned, and you are right to be worried. The taxi driver says to you "Do you know where is Kiel ?" You will discover that it is 700km away from your present location.

14. It's now 8:15pm and you are on the verge of a mental breakdown. Mirjam saves you, though, with her amazing optimism. She tells you that you can't change anything now, so you may as well make the most of it. The wisdom in her words is irrefutable, so you pull yourself together. Mirjam will suggest that you accompany her back to Stuttgart station where you will surely be able to make another plan, which you should do.

15. When Mirjam leaves you at the information desk it is 8:45pm. Give her a CD as thanks, even though she will say she feels like a thief.

16. Acquire an itinerary for Kiel, being sure to double check that there are no errors in this one. Proceed to the ticket window to reserve a bed, as the only remaining trains are night trains.

17. The train at 10:20 will seem perfect, giving you 8 hours of sleep before your first change, and arriving in Kiel at 8:30am. Unfortunately, reservations close 2 hours before the departure of the train, so you won't be able to take this one. You will, therefore, be forced to reserve a bed on the 1:30am train, with a change every 3 hours. It means you will probably not sleep much tonight, but at least you still arrive at 10:30am.

7.50 for all this ! 

18. Phone your hosts in Kiel from a payphone and tell them the story thus far, and that they should expect you the following morning at 10:30. From here, proceed directly to McDonald's for some emotional eating.

19. It's at about 10:30pm that you should wearily walk into the only warm place in the station: a café.

20. Befriend the girl seated in front of you, and be very glad you did. Her name is Lisa Maria, she's from southern Germany and is en route to Paris to see her friend. She will be splendid company for the next few hours until the departure of your train. She will also teach you a few long German compound words including Donaudampfschifffahrtskapitänsmütze, which is the hat that the captain of a steam boat on the Danube river would wear.

21. It is largely due to her smiling face that you don't notice the passing hours, and that you remain cool when you hear that your train is delayed 30 minutes due to, believe it or not, German strike action. Yes, it seems that Stuttgart is the only train station in all of Germany where one could have had this problem, as there is a great controversy surrounding its redevelopment. Out the front of the station you can hear shouting and music and police sirens.

22. 1:30am: The staff at the train station will assure you that the delay will not affect your connection in Koblenz at 5am. Don't believe her, because at 5:10am you will be in Koblenz and your train for Kiel will be gone.

23. It is here in Koblenz, after 24 hours of travel and no sleep yet, that you will discover a stone of resilience within you that says, "so what ?"

24. Wait an hour for a train to Hamburg, where you know you can change for Kiel. Sleep solidly in your seat.

25. At 11:20am, board the train from Hamburg for Kiel.

26. At 12:36pm, disembark from the train and be overjoyed to see Kiel.

Even though you're here only 2 nights before you have to return to Paris.

So what ?

I still managed to busk in Kiel. It was very, very cold, though.

Day 54 - Doctor Dijon

Delicious but deadly

I seem to have contracted salmonellosis. The only likely culprit is the homemade sushi I ate a day before becoming decidedly unwell. Attached is the last known footage of said sushi. Maude, by a strange coincidence, suffered no such ailment.

In any case, I've otherwise enjoyed my return to Dijon. I managed all the same to play in the markets again, and sold another big stack of CD's, et alors je dois vous remercier de votre générosité :)

The coins earned that morning were used to pay for the visit to the doctor that afternoon.

My favourite spot in the markets

On Tuesday the French people will resume doing what they do best: going on strike. This means I either have to leave tomorrow or risk being stuck for up to several weeks. It's a concern. Needless to say, I am not well enough to be being too adventurous, so in all likelihood I'll be staying put. I suppose I'll just have to spend a bit more time at the markets.

:)

Journey Thus Far

Click image to enlarge.

Journey Thus Far

Click image to enlarge.

Day 46 - Salzburg to Belgium

My spot in Linzer Strasse, Salzburg.

Since I last wrote, I have been to Salzburg, Austria; to Gent, Belgium; and to Namur, in Belgium's south. All three are absolutely gorgeous cities, and I had a blast while I was there.

Salzburg, as many of you may know, was the birthplace of Mozart and the setting of the film, The Sound of Music. It is the fourth largest city in Austria, with between 150,000 and 200,000 inhabitants. I stayed in the Yoho Youth Hostel on Paracelsusstrasse, where they play The Sound of Music every morning on the DVD player. This is really cool for tourists, I can't imagine how much the staff despise the movie, though. I watched it twice.

I experienced some awesome nightlife, and happened to be there at the same time as an awesome festival, with rides and pretzels and currywurst and beer and chocolate.. you get the idea. Heaps of fun.

I also had an unbelievably generous audience in the streets of Linzer Strasse. Thank you so much to those who bought CD's ! :)

Salzburg is a beautiful city. I had an awesome few nights there.

Me eating some Belgian fries with Sari

From there I went to Gent, which is a city in Northern Belgium where they speak Flemish Dutch. There are roughly 250,000 people living there, and they have a seriously rockin' student community. I was able to tag along to the Student Kick-Off, which was an awesome party with bands and beer and lots of fun.

I was bewildered by how beautiful the streets are in Gent. Truly the most beautiful city I have visited thus far on the trip. I busked beside the canals, which was a lovely setting. Thank you to those bought a CD :)

From Gent I travelled southwards, to Namur.

Namur is the capital of Wallonia, the Southern (French-speaking) portion of Belgium. It has a population of a little over 100,000 people and is home to a large number of students. On Saturday mornings there's a market in the centre of town, and on Avenue Cardinal Mercier there's a bakery that sells stuffed toys as well as delicious pastries.

Amazing busking in Namur's Saturday market

I have fallen in love with this city. It is gorgeous and small enough to walk around in a day. I spent Sunday afternoon with Maude walking around La Citadelle, which is an old medieval fortress perched upon a large hill. From the top you get a beautiful view over the city.

This morning I busked in the markets and was absolutely blown away by how generous and friendly everybody is here. People kept approaching me just to chat and wish me well on my travels, and an astounding number purchased CD's. Merci mille fois à vous, votre générosité m'a vraiment touché :)

Some passers-by took photos

So far I think my destinations in Belgium have been the prettiest. Both by their architecture, as well as their inhabitants.

There's a vet school here in Namur, so I'll have to go and investigate that on Monday :)

Otherwise, I have nothing more to recount at this time. I'll write another blog post from my next destination, which is yet to be decided ! Ah, the thrill of aimless wandering.

:)

Tim

Journey Thus Far

Click image to enlarge.